P.O. Box 320, South Hero, VT 05486-0320  www.herosarms.com  

E-Mail: sales@herosarms.com   Phone 802-372-4789 Fax 802-372-5900

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The Home Page has an alphabetical list of all guns in stock, and notes which guns have been sold.


The way to use this chart is to go along the bottom line to find your Height in Inches (say 5'9" or 69") , draw a vertical line up to the slanted line, mark where this vertical line crosses, then draw a horizontal line to the left hand scale of stock LOPs (in this case slightly over 14.4").  This will give you your approximate length of pull, generally accurate within plus or minus a quarter of an inch.  Most guns are, or used to be, made with a 14 3/8" length of pull, which is perfect for a 5'8" person.  a 5'2" person would take about a 13 1/2" stock, a 6' person would take about a 14 7/8" stock. There are, of course, always other factors which may be important, some short people have long arms, some tall people have short arms, some people may have longer necks, narrower or wider heads, some people may have unusual stances, etc., which is why a professional stock fitting is best.


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Forearm Mounting

Modern Shotguns are built to incredibly tight tolerances, which the owner will most often encounter when first mounting or removing the forearm.

Holding the shotgun vertically on a table, pull the forearm into place against the receiver and the barrel. When you are certain that the forearm is properly placed and snug to the barrel, a tap with a plastic dead blow mallet will put the lever in position. 



A screwdriver, or other small pry bar, wrapped in tape, if necessary to avoid marring the surface, will help in removal, by lifting the lever.



After the first few times it will assemble and disassemble easily without tools.



It is important for the Gracoil to be adjusted to the shooter, not the load or shell size. When adjusted to the individual, the recoil will activate the GraCoil and it will respond to protect the shooter.

Not all shooters mount or hold a gun with the same pressure to the shoulder and face. If the tension is set too light there will be more gun motion than necessary, and it could compress enough to pinch the shooter. When the tension is set too heavy, more recoil is felt. The tension should be set tight enough the unit will not completely close, or "bottom out".

Setting the Tension

Open the unit using the 3/32 Allen wrench, insert it into the hole on the right side and loosen the set screw 2 turns, then pull the plate off exposing the center shaft. Using the same allen wrench, insert it in the hole in the shaft and tum as the arrow indicates, towards the lightest setting and replace the pad plate.

Mount the gun as if you are about to call for a target. If the unit starts to compress, it is set too light, so remove the pad plate again and tum the center shaft 1 tum towards '(Heavy", replace the pad plate and mount the gun. Repeat this process until the unit does not compress. Do not go past this point more than 1/4 turn. It is now set on the "breakover edge", any amount of recoil will activate the GraCoil, giving quick response with a short stroke, and absorbing a greater amount of recoil for a softer shot.

Pad Plate Adjustment

The GraCoil pad plate is guided and runs on 4 teflon liners for smooth motion and lifetime wear, a small amount of oil on the guide pins occasionally will help keep it running smoothly. To adjust the pad plate for the shooter's comfort, remove the recoil pad using the 3/32 allen wrench, then use the 1/8 allen wrench to loosen the 2 screws holding the cam locks. Both screws have a series of 6 holes for adjustment, simply move the plate to suit your comfort and retighten.

Length of Pull Adjustment;

If you have a GC15LP GraCoil with length of pull adjustment, use a 7/64 Allen wrench to loosen the 2 screws on the right side of the stock plate, then turn the center shaft to your desired stock length and retighten.

GRACO Corporation I Gravette, Arkansas 72736

479-787 -6520


The only true way to change the point of impact on your shotgun is to adjust the comb. If you shoot with one eye or two eyes, the dominant eye becomes the rear sight on your gun, and with proper and consistent gun mount you can adjust the rear sight with your adjustable comb.

First, you need to know where the center of the pattern is hitting with the sight picture you are now using. The best way to find this is with a pattern board and a tight choke. We recommend shooting a distance of 30 yards at a spot or mark that you can measure from to check where the center of the pattern is in relationship to the spot, this is very important.

To adjust the comb to correct the point of impact, if you move the comb up the gun will shoot hi!:her and if you move the comb to the left the gun will shoot to the left. The amount to move the comb is approximate, as 1/16 inch will change the point of impact at30 yards about 1-1/2 inches, depending on barrel length.

The white plastic washers we supply with each comb installation are 1/16 inch thick, the package of 20 allows for 10 washers on each post, this is enough for a 15 inch adjustment.


If the center of your test pattern is 4 inches low and 3 inches to the right , you need to raise the comb 3 washers and move the comb post to the left 1/8 inch for a 50/50 point of impact.

GRACO Corporation Gravette, Arkansas 72736 (479) 787-6520

Caesar Guerini



The DTS Kinetic Balancer functions as a gun balancing and a recoil reduction system.

The system allows you to add 4.25 - 7 ounces in 1.41 ounce increments. The weight can be adjusted forward or backwards to fine tune the balance of your gun.

For initial installation contact Caesar Guerini or any authorized Caesar Guerini dealer.

Warning: Make sure your gun is unloaded and disassembled before making any adjustments.

To adjust balance:

1. Loosen the screws in the red control collars with a 2.5 mm allen wrench.

2. Slide the first collar and the kinetic spring off of the mechanism.

3. Remove or add the desired number of weights and replace the spring and collar.

The collars should be assembled with the o-ring to the outside.

4. Position the weights, springs, and collars in the desired position and tighten one of the collars.

5. Compress the mechanism , until there is about " between the collars and the weights then tighten the second collar. When the springs are compressed to " they will offer the maximum recoil reduction.

Place complete balance mechanism into the stock and replace recoil pad.


Barrel Weights are also available, just squeeze together and fit in any vent slot between the barrels to change the center of gravity of the gun.


Fabarm Choke Constrictions as measured
Barrel Constriction just before choke .722" to .725"
Fab  # Bore Constriction 
None .725" 0" Cyl-SK
#2           .715" .10" IC
#5           .705" .20" Mod
#7           .698" .27" IM
#9           .688" .37" F

Browning Invector DS choke tubes

A number of posts on Shotgun World have indicated that DS choke tubes that don't fit with traditional constrictions.  For example, traditionally a Skeet choke is .005" tighter than bore diameter, while the DS choke is .002 larger than bore diameter.  If you measure an extended Invector Plus Choke it goes from .745" at the entrance (has to be a bit bigger than bore diameter to avoid catching the wad) and immediately starts constricting down to .734" at the muzzle.  The important part is that it is a continuous constriction.

I have measured the DS chokes. Actually I think DS chokes are "jug" chokes in a choke tube. They do not continuously constrict.  Instead of opening up the barrel itself a bit back from the muzzle to create a jug choke, Browning did it in the tube. Yes the barrel ID is .738", but it immediately opens up to .755" or a bit over in the choke tube and maintains this bore for 1.66" before beginning a 1.68" conical section ending in a (Skeet) .742". That 1 2/3" .755" section allows the wad to open up a bit before being choked down. Browning may have made the choke constrictions and chosen the names on the basis of patterning at different distances rather than on a calculation from bore diameter which is what most of the commentators are doing.

Patterning the Fabarm Tribore 

Ernest Broe, Center Road Guns, Montpelier, VT (Screen name Peacore on Shotgun World) 

I am writing to tell you about my experience with Tri-Bore barrels.

A good number of years ago I had an H&K FP6 pump that had a Tri-Bored barrel. I used it for duck hunting and had excellent luck with the gun but, I sold it. However I was very impressed with the patterns and the way it would reach out and get ducks for me. My dog probably liked it too because he got to go get the ducks 

I never forgot my experience with the Tri-Bored gun and that was a major factor in my decision to buy a Fabarm L4S with a Tri-Bored barrel.

During 2017 and some of 2018 my duck hunting partner and I used the range on my property to test various shotguns and factory loads of non-toxic duck shot. Since I am a FFL dealer I had a good selection of fine semi-auto duck guns plus we used his Benelli Vinci a lot also. I had a Benelli M2, a Beretta Xtrema II, a Beretta 391, a Remington V3 and the new Retay. We shot patterns most Saturday mornings the summer of 2017. We counted the hits on every paper and computed the percentage. We shot more than 100 patterns between 2017 and 2018. (My wife got a little sick of our testing)

I shot the L4S with the 9/10 choke in the Tri-Bored barrel at both 30 and 40 yards. No matter the load we tried we always got the best patterns with the Tri-Bored barrel. We got to the point where we'd shoot two or three patterns through the L4S with whatever load we were trying that week and then stop shooting the Fabarm and try the other guns to see if they would equal the patterns we were getting from my Tri-Bored barrel. The other guns patterned so you could hit ducks, but rarely, if ever, equaled my L4S.

The other guns we tested were all fine shotguns and I like and respect them all but we were testing to see what gun and choke would give the best results for duck hunting on Lake Champlain.

By the way he bought many high dollar, big name, after market chokes, the best you can get, and the Tri-Bored barrel and the 9/10 factory choke beat them all. I think the major factor in my results is the Tri-Bored barrel and very good factory chokes from Fabarm.

As you know, I have now purchased the Fabarm Elos N2. I considered other good quality O/U guns before this purchase but the Tri-Bored barrels helped me to decide on the Fabarm and so far it is working great for skeet. The L4S is sitting in the safe waiting for the 2019 turkey season.